Memories of Murshidabad - History close at hand
At a distance of about 220 km by road from Calcutta, lies the old city of Murshidabad on the southern banks of the river Bhagirathi, a tributary of the mighty Ganges.
In the annals of the history of Bengal, and also of India, Murshidabad holds a place like none other. Dynasties and conquests, glory and prosperity, pomp and prestige, wealth and lucre, conspiracy and deceit - the history of this city is replete with such captivating tales. During the Mughal rule of India, Murshidabad was the capital of Bengal from 1717 to 1790. It particularly flourished during the reign of Nawab Shuja-ud-daula and Nawab Alivardi Khan when it reached the pinnacle of prosperity.
However, ironically, the name Murshidabad today resonates mostly with one of the darkest chapters in the history of India, one which changed the fate of our nation for the next two centuries. The defeat of Nawab Siraj-ud-daula, the last independent ruler of Bengal, at the eponymous Battle of Plassey (the town of Plassey or Palashi as it is called in Bengali is located at about 50 kms from Murshidabad), the treachery of Mir Jafar at the behest of the ruthlessly ambitious Colonel Robert Clive led to the downfall of the Nawabs of Bengal and paved the way for the British to hold undisputed power and control over the state of Bengal.
Prior to this the British East India Company was primarily focused on commerce and trading activities. But with this crucial victory they superseded the French, who were their arch-rivals in this battle for supremacy, and also took a giant step towards their ultimate goal of colonizing India.
Having always been fascinated with history, this spring (March 2014) I decided to embark on a tour to Murshidabad over a long weekend.
A 'tanga' (horse-drawn carriage)-ride through the streets of Murshidabad is the perfect way to soak in the vibes of this city and to savor the myriads of sights and scenes that it has to offer. As the horse broke into a canter, the sound of the hooves on the asphalt transported me back to the bygone days of royalty.
Tomb of Azim-un-nisa Begum
My first stop was the Tomb of Azim-un-nisa Begum, daughter of Murshid Quli Khan, the first Nawab of Bengal and the founder of Murshidabad ; and wife of Nawab Shuja-ud-din, who inherited the throne as the second Nawab of Bengal after the death of Murshid Quli Khan. A mosque was built here in 1734 in the architectural pattern of the bigger and much more famous Katra Mosque. However, it was destroyed in a massive earthquake, and all that now remains of this once grand structure is a doorway.
Legend has it that once Azim-un-nisa fell seriously ill and was prescribed a medicine by the court physician, which was prepared from the remnants of a human liver. However, even after recovering from her illness, she was addicted to this medicine and thus resorted to taking innocent lives. When Murshid Quli Khan came to know about this heinous practice, he buried his daughter alive. Another version of the story says that it was not her father but her husband Shuja-ud-din who put her to death. Like that of her father, the grave of Azimunnisa also lies beneath a flight of stairs.
Kathgola
Moti Jheel
Motijheel, or 'Pearl Lake',
is situated at about one km South of Lalbagh. This beautiful horseshoe shaped lake was
excavated by Nawazesh Mohammad Khan, the husband of the famous Ghasseti Begum.
According to the pioneering English geographer James Renell, the Moti Jheel was a derivative of the Bhagirathi river, that once meandered through this area. Within the bend of the lake were constructed a beautiful stone palace (Sang-i-dalan, also known as the Moti Jheel palace), a grand gateway, a mosque and other structures.
The ravages of time have taken its toll and all that stands now is the mosque (Kala Masjid) and the enclosures to its east which host several tombs.
Every historical monument has myths or legends associated to it. The Moti Jheel is no exception. It is said that inside the Sang-i-dalan was a huge room having no doors or windows and closed on all four sides. Large quantities of wealth belonging to the Begum had been kept hidden beneath the room. Once an English soldier, enthralled by the tales of buried treasure, had fired a canon to break open the masonry and excavate the treasure. The canon shot barely managed to make a dent to the wall. Instead the next morning the soldier died a sudden, mysterious death. Precursor to Howard Carter and the tomb of Tutankhamen, anybody?!
Jahan Kosha Canon
This mighty canon is the surviving proof of the artillery prowess of the Nawabs. Weighing at approximately 7900 kg and reaching up to 17 feet 6 inches in length, it was made of an amalgamation of eight metals. A single shelling required as much as 17 kg of gunpowder. This great gun was aptly christened as Jahan Kosha, meaning 'destroyer of the world'.
The Jahan Kosha was built at Dhaka during the reign of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan by the famed craftsman Janardan Karmakar in the year 1637.
This unique specimen of military craftsmanship is now on display about a quarter of mile to the south-east of Katra mosque, at the 'Tope Khana' which used to be the artillery park of the Nawabs.
What intrigued me a lot was that the metal of the canon felt ice-cool to the touch, even in the searing afternoon sun, while the iron entrance gate (a much modern addition) was scalding hot! The metal workers of yore surely knew some tricks!
Katra Mosque
The majestic Katra Masjid (mosque) towering over an expanse of 19.5 acres is one of the most stunning sights in Murshidabad. It was constructed in the year 1723 by Murshid Quli Khan, the founder ruler of Murshidabad. The word ‘Katra’ means 'market' and the name was given to the mosque owing to the fact that the place had a large market around the mosque during that time. Originally the Katra mosque had 4 octagonal minarets, 70 feet in height, with winding steps leading to the top, but two were destroyed in an earthquake in 1879. The minarets had small loopholes which were used for musketry against any approaching danger. The two surviving minarets bear silent testimony to the grandeur and magnificence of this architectural landmark.
The Katra masjid is the final resting place of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan who lies buried in a tomb under the 14 flight of steps at the eastern entrance. This was carried out as per the Nawab's last wish. Repentant for the misdeeds committed by him in his lifetime, he sought penance and forgiveness. He desired to be buried in such a place which would receive the footsteps of the faithful entering the mosque for prayers. The dust from their footsteps would be his means to salvation. There is a slab bearing this beautiful epitaph in Arabic: "Muhammad, the Arabian, the glory of both worlds. Dust be on the head of him who is not the dust of his portal".
Hazarduari Palace
The grand Hazarduari Palace situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi river is perhaps the most spectacular and most recognizable landmark in a city strewn with historical monuments. It was built in the nineteenth century by the British architect Duncan Macleod, under the reign of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah.
'Hazarduari' translated means 'the one with a thousand doors'. In times of tension and strife, security measures were of paramount importance, and some of these were greatly innovative. The Hazarduari is one such shining example. Out of the one thousand doors, only a mere hundred are real. The rest nine hundred are false in order to baffle attackers and also block the escape route of miscreants.
The Hazarduari Palace museum is a sight to behold! It houses the most astonishing collection of Nawabi and British paraphernalia. From artillery to swords, daggers to shields, paintings to sculptures, cut-glass showpieces to ivory bric-a-brac; the display is gorgeous and breathtaking! How I wish they had allowed photography within the interiors so that I could have captured this unparalleled experience.
Roshan Bagh
This mosque was built by Shuja-ud-din during his reign as Nawab of Bengal (1725-1739). His tomb also lies at this tranquil abode whose name translated means the 'garden of light'.
Khosh Bagh
Life's irony couldn't be any clearer. Khosh Bagh means the 'garden of happiness'. How tragic it is that in the annals of history, this place will always be remembered as the final resting place of the last Nawabs of Bengal. Khosh Bagh, built by Nawab Ali Vardi Khan along the lines of the Jama Masjid at Delhi , is located at the other end of the Bhagirathi river. Here lie in eternal sleep, Ali Vardi Khan, his beloved grandson and the last Nawab of Bengal Siraj-ud-daula, Siraj's devoted wife Lutf-un-nisa, and other members of the royal family. After Siraj was betrayed by Mir Jafar, captured and put to death, Lutf-un-nisa fled to Dhaka to escape the shackles of Mir Jafar's harem. Later on, however, she returned to Khosh Bagh and lived here for several years tending to the royal graves and the rose bushes. She used to spend even the meager allowance that the British provided her in her dedicated efforts for the up keep of Khosh Bagh. After her death, she was buried close to Siraj's grave.
In the annals of the history of Bengal, and also of India, Murshidabad holds a place like none other. Dynasties and conquests, glory and prosperity, pomp and prestige, wealth and lucre, conspiracy and deceit - the history of this city is replete with such captivating tales. During the Mughal rule of India, Murshidabad was the capital of Bengal from 1717 to 1790. It particularly flourished during the reign of Nawab Shuja-ud-daula and Nawab Alivardi Khan when it reached the pinnacle of prosperity.
However, ironically, the name Murshidabad today resonates mostly with one of the darkest chapters in the history of India, one which changed the fate of our nation for the next two centuries. The defeat of Nawab Siraj-ud-daula, the last independent ruler of Bengal, at the eponymous Battle of Plassey (the town of Plassey or Palashi as it is called in Bengali is located at about 50 kms from Murshidabad), the treachery of Mir Jafar at the behest of the ruthlessly ambitious Colonel Robert Clive led to the downfall of the Nawabs of Bengal and paved the way for the British to hold undisputed power and control over the state of Bengal.
Prior to this the British East India Company was primarily focused on commerce and trading activities. But with this crucial victory they superseded the French, who were their arch-rivals in this battle for supremacy, and also took a giant step towards their ultimate goal of colonizing India.
Having always been fascinated with history, this spring (March 2014) I decided to embark on a tour to Murshidabad over a long weekend.
A 'tanga' (horse-drawn carriage)-ride through the streets of Murshidabad is the perfect way to soak in the vibes of this city and to savor the myriads of sights and scenes that it has to offer. As the horse broke into a canter, the sound of the hooves on the asphalt transported me back to the bygone days of royalty.
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| A tanga-ride is a must do |
Tomb of Azim-un-nisa Begum
My first stop was the Tomb of Azim-un-nisa Begum, daughter of Murshid Quli Khan, the first Nawab of Bengal and the founder of Murshidabad ; and wife of Nawab Shuja-ud-din, who inherited the throne as the second Nawab of Bengal after the death of Murshid Quli Khan. A mosque was built here in 1734 in the architectural pattern of the bigger and much more famous Katra Mosque. However, it was destroyed in a massive earthquake, and all that now remains of this once grand structure is a doorway.
Legend has it that once Azim-un-nisa fell seriously ill and was prescribed a medicine by the court physician, which was prepared from the remnants of a human liver. However, even after recovering from her illness, she was addicted to this medicine and thus resorted to taking innocent lives. When Murshid Quli Khan came to know about this heinous practice, he buried his daughter alive. Another version of the story says that it was not her father but her husband Shuja-ud-din who put her to death. Like that of her father, the grave of Azimunnisa also lies beneath a flight of stairs.
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| The tomb |
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| Lush greenery of rural Bengal |
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| The sole standing gateway of the mosque |
Kathgola
Next stop on the itinerary was Kathgola which comprises of the majestic Kathgola palace, the picturesque gardens adjoining it, and the beautifully constructed Paresh Nath temple; spanning a total expanse of over 30 acres.
The ornate, four-storey mansion, fringed with lush gardens and a pond, is a wonderful sight. It houses a veritable treasure trove of antique furniture, paintings, books, scrolls, crockery, cutlery, vases, Belgian mirrors, chandeliers, and even a couple of billiards tables. It was an amazing experience to walk through the many rooms and gaze spellbound at the invaluable treasures on display. Sometimes there was this surreal feeling that a curtain would soon part in front of my eyes and I would be transported back to those days of yore when the palace would reverberate with grand festivities and celebrations.
'Kathgola' gets its name from the rare black roses that used to be cultivated here at one point of time. This was the peaceful retreat of the wealthy Jain merchants, the borthers Dhanpat Singh Dungar and Laxmipat Singh Dungar, built circa 1874 by Harreck Chand. Both the palace and the temple are wonderful examples of the harmonious amalgamation of different architectural styles.
An interesting bit of trivia - some portions of the famous Bengali movie 'Anthony Firingee', starring screen legend Uttam Kumar, were shot in the interiors of the Kathgola Palace.
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| The Kathgola Palace |
The ornate, four-storey mansion, fringed with lush gardens and a pond, is a wonderful sight. It houses a veritable treasure trove of antique furniture, paintings, books, scrolls, crockery, cutlery, vases, Belgian mirrors, chandeliers, and even a couple of billiards tables. It was an amazing experience to walk through the many rooms and gaze spellbound at the invaluable treasures on display. Sometimes there was this surreal feeling that a curtain would soon part in front of my eyes and I would be transported back to those days of yore when the palace would reverberate with grand festivities and celebrations.
'Kathgola' gets its name from the rare black roses that used to be cultivated here at one point of time. This was the peaceful retreat of the wealthy Jain merchants, the borthers Dhanpat Singh Dungar and Laxmipat Singh Dungar, built circa 1874 by Harreck Chand. Both the palace and the temple are wonderful examples of the harmonious amalgamation of different architectural styles.
An interesting bit of trivia - some portions of the famous Bengali movie 'Anthony Firingee', starring screen legend Uttam Kumar, were shot in the interiors of the Kathgola Palace.
Moti Jheel
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| The Moti Jheel |
According to the pioneering English geographer James Renell, the Moti Jheel was a derivative of the Bhagirathi river, that once meandered through this area. Within the bend of the lake were constructed a beautiful stone palace (Sang-i-dalan, also known as the Moti Jheel palace), a grand gateway, a mosque and other structures.
 |
| Kala Masjid |
The ravages of time have taken its toll and all that stands now is the mosque (Kala Masjid) and the enclosures to its east which host several tombs.
Every historical monument has myths or legends associated to it. The Moti Jheel is no exception. It is said that inside the Sang-i-dalan was a huge room having no doors or windows and closed on all four sides. Large quantities of wealth belonging to the Begum had been kept hidden beneath the room. Once an English soldier, enthralled by the tales of buried treasure, had fired a canon to break open the masonry and excavate the treasure. The canon shot barely managed to make a dent to the wall. Instead the next morning the soldier died a sudden, mysterious death. Precursor to Howard Carter and the tomb of Tutankhamen, anybody?!
 |
| That Mystery Wall |
Jahan Kosha Canon
The Jahan Kosha was built at Dhaka during the reign of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan by the famed craftsman Janardan Karmakar in the year 1637.
This unique specimen of military craftsmanship is now on display about a quarter of mile to the south-east of Katra mosque, at the 'Tope Khana' which used to be the artillery park of the Nawabs.
What intrigued me a lot was that the metal of the canon felt ice-cool to the touch, even in the searing afternoon sun, while the iron entrance gate (a much modern addition) was scalding hot! The metal workers of yore surely knew some tricks!
Katra Mosque
The majestic Katra Masjid (mosque) towering over an expanse of 19.5 acres is one of the most stunning sights in Murshidabad. It was constructed in the year 1723 by Murshid Quli Khan, the founder ruler of Murshidabad. The word ‘Katra’ means 'market' and the name was given to the mosque owing to the fact that the place had a large market around the mosque during that time. Originally the Katra mosque had 4 octagonal minarets, 70 feet in height, with winding steps leading to the top, but two were destroyed in an earthquake in 1879. The minarets had small loopholes which were used for musketry against any approaching danger. The two surviving minarets bear silent testimony to the grandeur and magnificence of this architectural landmark.
The Katra masjid is the final resting place of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan who lies buried in a tomb under the 14 flight of steps at the eastern entrance. This was carried out as per the Nawab's last wish. Repentant for the misdeeds committed by him in his lifetime, he sought penance and forgiveness. He desired to be buried in such a place which would receive the footsteps of the faithful entering the mosque for prayers. The dust from their footsteps would be his means to salvation. There is a slab bearing this beautiful epitaph in Arabic: "Muhammad, the Arabian, the glory of both worlds. Dust be on the head of him who is not the dust of his portal".
Hazarduari Palace
The grand Hazarduari Palace situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi river is perhaps the most spectacular and most recognizable landmark in a city strewn with historical monuments. It was built in the nineteenth century by the British architect Duncan Macleod, under the reign of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah.
'Hazarduari' translated means 'the one with a thousand doors'. In times of tension and strife, security measures were of paramount importance, and some of these were greatly innovative. The Hazarduari is one such shining example. Out of the one thousand doors, only a mere hundred are real. The rest nine hundred are false in order to baffle attackers and also block the escape route of miscreants.
The Hazarduari Palace museum is a sight to behold! It houses the most astonishing collection of Nawabi and British paraphernalia. From artillery to swords, daggers to shields, paintings to sculptures, cut-glass showpieces to ivory bric-a-brac; the display is gorgeous and breathtaking! How I wish they had allowed photography within the interiors so that I could have captured this unparalleled experience.
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| The majestic Nizamat Imambara with the Clock Tower at the foreground |
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| The Madina mosque |
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| The Hazarduari Palace |
Roshan Bagh
This mosque was built by Shuja-ud-din during his reign as Nawab of Bengal (1725-1739). His tomb also lies at this tranquil abode whose name translated means the 'garden of light'.
Khosh Bagh
Life's irony couldn't be any clearer. Khosh Bagh means the 'garden of happiness'. How tragic it is that in the annals of history, this place will always be remembered as the final resting place of the last Nawabs of Bengal. Khosh Bagh, built by Nawab Ali Vardi Khan along the lines of the Jama Masjid at Delhi , is located at the other end of the Bhagirathi river. Here lie in eternal sleep, Ali Vardi Khan, his beloved grandson and the last Nawab of Bengal Siraj-ud-daula, Siraj's devoted wife Lutf-un-nisa, and other members of the royal family. After Siraj was betrayed by Mir Jafar, captured and put to death, Lutf-un-nisa fled to Dhaka to escape the shackles of Mir Jafar's harem. Later on, however, she returned to Khosh Bagh and lived here for several years tending to the royal graves and the rose bushes. She used to spend even the meager allowance that the British provided her in her dedicated efforts for the up keep of Khosh Bagh. After her death, she was buried close to Siraj's grave.
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| Entrance to Khoshbagh |
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| Mosque at Khoshbagh |
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| Grave of Nawab Siraj-ud-daula |
Very well written -- fantastic account -- Regards
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